No Smoke, No Chic? Milan’s Smoking Ban and Fashion’s Next Taboo

The streets of Milan have long been filled with models, editors, and influencers, casually lighting up a cigarette as they wait outside runway shows. But as of January 1st, Milan has officially banned public smoking, making those effortless pre-show smoke breaks a thing of the past—unless you’re cool with a €40 to €240 fine.

So what does this mean for the fashion world? For decades, smoking has been stitched into the very fabric of fashion’s rebellious aesthetic, from Coco Chanel and Yohji Yamamoto to Kate Moss and Kurt Cobain. Cigarettes weren’t just props; they were statements. But now that Milan—a global fashion capital—has snuffed them out, what’s next for fashion’s obsession with taboo?

Cigarettes: The Ultimate Fashion Accessory?

Let’s be real—smoking has been one of fashion’s longest-running symbols of cool, effortless rebellion. It’s the anti-establishment gesture, the ultimate accessory for those who want to look like they just don’t care (even though, ironically, caring about looking cool is kind of the whole point).

From Nick Knight’s 1988 portrait of Susie Bick smoking in Yohji Yamamoto to Kate Moss sparking up at Louis Vuitton’s Fall 2011 show, cigarettes have been ingrained in fashion imagery for decades. And even as anti-smoking campaigns grew, designers like Christian Cowan sent models puffing down the runway for Fall 2024, proving that the aesthetic appeal of cigarettes is still alive—at least in imagery.

But here’s the thing: is smoking even cool anymore?

 The Shift Away from "Self-Destructive Chic"

Let’s not sugarcoat it—smoking wrecks your health, stinks up your outfits, and honestly, if you're doing it just for the aesthetic, it can feel try-hard. And as fashion evolves, what’s considered “cool” evolves with it. If the industry's obsession with smoking has lasted this long, does Milan’s ban signal a shift toward a new aesthetic of rebellion?

With smoking bans becoming more common and Gen Z embracing wellness culture, fashion might be forced to break up with its long-term nicotine habit. We’ve already seen the shift in aesthetics—less heroin chic, more “clean girl” minimalism. Wellness is trending, and even the edgiest brands are leaning into a more health-conscious, sustainable, and dare we say, wholesome take on fashion.

 So What’s Next? Fashion’s Next Controversy

Fashion thrives on controversy, rebellion, and pushing boundaries. If smoking is being edged out, something else will take its place. Maybe the next "bad habit" aesthetic isn’t a habit at all—it could be a taboo fabric, a daring silhouette, or an unconventional beauty standard.

Or maybe, just maybe, fashion will finally get over its obsession with self-destruction as a form of cool and embrace something that doesn’t quite literally go up in smoke.

One thing’s for sure—fashion will always need a vice. The question is: what’s next?

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